Thursday

The trouble with this country and spices

For thousands of years spices have figured in most culinary dishes. They were discovered and exploited to bring out or enhance the flavours during the cooking process. To date there are hundreds if not thousands of different spices around the world.
But in this country spices are not as diverse as one would think, despite the Philippines being occupied by several colonists in the past millennium. Sure you get the common cinnamon, anise, vanilla, coriander and cumin seed, etc. But what about saffron? five spice? garam masala? whole tumeric? Can you imagine what Filipino chefs could do if they could get their knife-scarred hands on a vial of cardamon?
I would really like to know where to get spices without having to travel around the world for it.

The trouble with this country and spices

For thousands of years spices have figured in most culinary dishes. They were discovered and exploited to bring out or enhance the flavours during the cooking process. To date there are hundreds if not thousands of different spices around the world.
But in this country spices are not as diverse as one would think, despite the Philippines being occupied by several colonists in the past millennium. Sure you get the common cinnamon, anise, vanilla, coriander and cumin seed, etc. But what about saffron? five spice? garam masala? whole tumeric? Can you imagine what Filipino chefs could do if they could get their knife-scarred hands on a vial of cardamon?
I would really like to know where to get spices without having to travel around the world for it.

Friday

Culinary Myths

The culinary world is full of axioms, rules, wives tales, even urban legends. Heck, if you can get it published on paper or get it on the internet and it's about food, people will believe that it is gospel. But is it? Culinary Myths are everywhere, and being professionals, we tend to scrutinize every one, and decide which works best and which is just bull.
One of the more popular myths I have heard often is searing the meat to seal in the juices. If that were true, then the cooked meat should just weigh as much as the raw product. So I decided to put it to the test:

We have two almost identical beef tenderloin cut into filet mignon. Each weighing 250 grams. Meat A will go straight to the oven, and Meat B will benefit from a fast sear on a very hot cast iron skillet. We coat each meat with a very light layer of olive oil, just so the heat will distribute evenly. Both meats will end up in a 375F degree oven for finishing, ending with an internal temperature of 140F.

Meat A goes into the oven. Meat B goes in after searing. But here is the twist. Meat B reached internal temperature first. We take it out of the oven and place it on the board to rest. Meat A reaches 140F five minutes later. We now weigh each meat.

Meat A ended up with a weight of 258 grams. A loss of about 14%. Since it never seared, the myth, if it is plausible, has not sealed in the juices. Meat B, with it's seared surface, weighed in 243 grams, a loss of 19%. Incredible.

So, why is that? Searing should have sealed in more of the juices. Looking at the microscopic level, it is determined that heat damages cells, moisture is released readily. So searing does not seal in the juices. But the natural sugars in the meat caramelize around the point of contact with the skillet, adding flavor to the filet mignon. Yum!

If you have any other myths that need to be explored, let me know.

Culinary Myths

The culinary world is full of axioms, rules, wives tales, even urban legends. Heck, if you can get it published on paper or get it on the internet and it's about food, people will believe that it is gospel. But is it? Culinary Myths are everywhere, and being professionals, we tend to scrutinize every one, and decide which works best and which is just bull.
One of the more popular myths I have heard often is searing the meat to seal in the juices. If that were true, then the cooked meat should just weigh as much as the raw product. So I decided to put it to the test:

We have two almost identical beef tenderloin cut into filet mignon. Each weighing 250 grams. Meat A will go straight to the oven, and Meat B will benefit from a fast sear on a very hot cast iron skillet. We coat each meat with a very light layer of olive oil, just so the heat will distribute evenly. Both meats will end up in a 375F degree oven for finishing, ending with an internal temperature of 140F.

Meat A goes into the oven. Meat B goes in after searing. But here is the twist. Meat B reached internal temperature first. We take it out of the oven and place it on the board to rest. Meat A reaches 140F five minutes later. We now weigh each meat.

Meat A ended up with a weight of 258 grams. A loss of about 14%. Since it never seared, the myth, if it is plausible, has not sealed in the juices. Meat B, with it's seared surface, weighed in 243 grams, a loss of 19%. Incredible.

So, why is that? Searing should have sealed in more of the juices. Looking at the microscopic level, it is determined that heat damages cells, moisture is released readily. So searing does not seal in the juices. But the natural sugars in the meat caramelize around the point of contact with the skillet, adding flavor to the filet mignon. Yum!

If you have any other myths that need to be explored, let me know.

Saturday

The week has come and gone, but not one person participated in the sinigang festival. We even had the managers and executives have a taste, but our in-house guests did not get one bowl. Strange. Maybe we should do some guerrilla marketing next week.
Today I had to clear out the fridge and reorganize all the containers and foodstuffs. It's amazing how lazy people have become. Half of the items needed to be thrown away because either it was mislabeled or stored improperly. There was marinated beef that have been in the fridge for close to two months now. Sheesh. Even though there were items that looked like it had another hour of life or so, I followed the mantra 'When in doubt, throw it out'.
Hopefully we begin the week with a really sanitized kitchen, with gleaming steel surfaces and the wonderful aroma of cooking.
The week has come and gone, but not one person participated in the sinigang festival. We even had the managers and executives have a taste, but our in-house guests did not get one bowl. Strange. Maybe we should do some guerrilla marketing next week.
Today I had to clear out the fridge and reorganize all the containers and foodstuffs. It's amazing how lazy people have become. Half of the items needed to be thrown away because either it was mislabeled or stored improperly. There was marinated beef that have been in the fridge for close to two months now. Sheesh. Even though there were items that looked like it had another hour of life or so, I followed the mantra 'When in doubt, throw it out'.
Hopefully we begin the week with a really sanitized kitchen, with gleaming steel surfaces and the wonderful aroma of cooking.

Monday

Well, it's a Monday, two days into the Sinigang Festival at the Executive Lounge. We haven't had any significant orders on the first day, since part of the buffet had Sinigang Corned beef Soup. Today, it's been quiet, serving Continental European Dishes on the buffet menu. Again the Sinigang orders are minimal. Perhaps it's just the second day, or that the waiters have not been pushing it hard enough. The captain waiter seems gung ho about it, so no problem there. The mise en place is ready, prepared so that we can serve out the soup within ten minutes. Just a matter of getting it out to the people.
We already have placed a small poster on the entrance, and tables have toppers announcing the festival. I guess it will catch up soon.
Well, it's a Monday, two days into the Sinigang Festival at the Executive Lounge. We haven't had any significant orders on the first day, since part of the buffet had Sinigang Corned beef Soup. Today, it's been quiet, serving Continental European Dishes on the buffet menu. Again the Sinigang orders are minimal. Perhaps it's just the second day, or that the waiters have not been pushing it hard enough. The captain waiter seems gung ho about it, so no problem there. The mise en place is ready, prepared so that we can serve out the soup within ten minutes. Just a matter of getting it out to the people.
We already have placed a small poster on the entrance, and tables have toppers announcing the festival. I guess it will catch up soon.

Friday

On the first day of August, it comes to mind the activities that are scheduled that would occupy our time. For most of the world, the Olympics are fast approaching. For those in the industry, plans are in motion to make a good killing this month.
Here at the Ayala Towers, the rains have inundated us with nice cool weather, floods, traffic jams. And in the case of Makati, having hot soup, or at least I hope. For this month we started the Sinigang Festival, featuring Hot and sour soups in three flavours, Classic tamarind, green mango, and Thai.
All base broths uses a light tamarind broth that came with Knorr Sinigang broth, just to make the sourness uniform and to add a unifying flavour. It branches out by the addition of souring ingredients for diversification. For the classic tamarind, we added the juices extracted from fresh tamarind fruit. For the green mango, as the name suggests, we used the unripe fruit and let the broth simmer for about 45 minutes to extract a very fruity sour broth. For the thai, we used chili paste with the addition of fresh lemons and lemongrass. I had the wait staff try the different broths and asked if they could identify the differences. 8 out of nine got the nuances down pat, but all agreed they are perfect for the weather that is engulfing our smog ridden city.
Guest weill expect a bowl of steamy soup, with fresh vegetables and meat or seafood. Nice to warm up and feel good again after braving the rains just to get in an artificially air conditioned cubicle on time. The yuippies never had it so good.
On a side note, the use of Knorr Sinigang broth powder is not really cheating. This product, along with other products such as beef broth and chicken stock, is meant to add convenience to the cooking process. It is what I learned in Les Roches as tro be part of the Assembly Kitchen ingredients. I still veer away from any seasoning with MSG.
So, if you are still interested on how the Sinigang Festival was accepted, I will post the progress during the month.
On the first day of August, it comes to mind the activities that are scheduled that would occupy our time. For most of the world, the Olympics are fast approaching. For those in the industry, plans are in motion to make a good killing this month.
Here at the Ayala Towers, the rains have inundated us with nice cool weather, floods, traffic jams. And in the case of Makati, having hot soup, or at least I hope. For this month we started the Sinigang Festival, featuring Hot and sour soups in three flavours, Classic tamarind, green mango, and Thai.
All base broths uses a light tamarind broth that came with Knorr Sinigang broth, just to make the sourness uniform and to add a unifying flavour. It branches out by the addition of souring ingredients for diversification. For the classic tamarind, we added the juices extracted from fresh tamarind fruit. For the green mango, as the name suggests, we used the unripe fruit and let the broth simmer for about 45 minutes to extract a very fruity sour broth. For the thai, we used chili paste with the addition of fresh lemons and lemongrass. I had the wait staff try the different broths and asked if they could identify the differences. 8 out of nine got the nuances down pat, but all agreed they are perfect for the weather that is engulfing our smog ridden city.
Guest weill expect a bowl of steamy soup, with fresh vegetables and meat or seafood. Nice to warm up and feel good again after braving the rains just to get in an artificially air conditioned cubicle on time. The yuippies never had it so good.
On a side note, the use of Knorr Sinigang broth powder is not really cheating. This product, along with other products such as beef broth and chicken stock, is meant to add convenience to the cooking process. It is what I learned in Les Roches as tro be part of the Assembly Kitchen ingredients. I still veer away from any seasoning with MSG.
So, if you are still interested on how the Sinigang Festival was accepted, I will post the progress during the month.